Nirvana
exists. Out among the palm and banana trees in the Peruvian highland forest
there exists a magical hammock. This hammock, when laid in properly, imbues the
user with an unnatural sense of calm. Many who use the hammock find themselves
transported to a world without any worries. I spent an entire evening in the
hammock and I swear to you, hand on a bible, that I was the closest to enlightenment
I’ve ever been in my life.
This
hammock exists between two posts in a semi-constructed wooden lodge. The lodge
rests on the crest of a hill; high enough to look out over the tiny river village
of Achinamiza. To get to the village (and my perfect zen state) I traveled
three hours by car at the foot of several mountains, and three hours up the Rio
Huallaga. The ferryman, a Peruvian known only as El Gato, sung nursery rhymes
to himself while navigating several ominous whirlpools.
The
village exists in a place out of time. Houses made by hand with barrigona wood
lined a central concrete walkway. One paved road and one power line. I did see
a television and accompanying cable dish, but I’m reassured the villagers don’t
have much time to watch television.
Anyone
who’s ever slept in a hammock can tell you: it’s tricky. Especially for those
who like to thrash in their sleep; hammocks are the enemy. It can take hours of
wiggling to find the appropriate amount of headroom. In the rainforest
mosquitoes consume any inch of square flesh you leave exposed. A hammock in the
rainforest thus, is twice as hard to sleep in. You have to get comfortable
while also covering as much of your body as possible without simultaneously suffocating
yourself.
I
don’t know how or when, but I fell asleep. When I awoke I was slow to realize
I’d stumbled in to paradise. I rubbed my eyes and checked for mosquito bites.
Assured I wasn’t complete hamburger I looked up and finally saw it.
Jungle,
as far as the eye could see. It circled Achinamiza, infringing on unkempt
corners of the town. It climbed up mountains, towering beyond my view. It
snaked alongside the Huallaga River, twisting and turning. It hid the many
tributaries and waterfalls that tribes just like this one thrived off of. With
the sun rising in creamy orange and purple overtones I realized this was peace.
This was geographical serenity. I would construct a lodge or buy the existing
one if I could share this tranquility with everyone I know and love, but peace
is as much a state of mind as it is a moment in time.
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